Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
